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Preventing Sunscald
Homeowners
who planted new trees this year, especially ones with thin bark, will
want to protect the southwest side of the new tree this winter to
protect it from sunscald.
Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees like honey locusts, fruit trees,
ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, red buds and willows are susceptible to
sunscald and bark cracks, according to John Hobbs, agriculture and
rural development specialist with University of Missouri Extension.
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"Sunscald normally
develops on the south or southwest side of a tree during late winter.
Sunscald and bark cracks can lead to the death of a tree if it is not
given special care."
According to Hobbs, sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to
relatively high temperatures.
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Research done in Georgia shows that the
southwest side of the trunk on a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer
than shaded bark in the winter.
"This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark
tissue resulting in cells becoming active," said Hobbs. "These cells
then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops
at night."
The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring.
Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. Trees will often
recover but will need some lots of extra care, especially watering
during dry weather.
To prevent sunscald, the trunks of susceptible trees can be covered
with tree
wrap in October or November.
Hobbs recommends applying tree
wrap from the ground to the
start of the first branches to protect
recently planted trees.
"Tree
wrap must be removed in March to
prevent girdling and possible
insect damage. Until the bark has thickened on young trees, they may
need to be wrapped yearly."
Another product that can be used on the trunk is tree
paint. White
latex paint is often used in orchards to help prevent splitting and
cracking by reflecting light
and heat from the tree trunk. Due to aesthetic reasons, most homeowners
are not interested in using tree paints.
Source: University of
Missouri Extension
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