Excerpted from Festive Feasts Cookbook
and drawn from Mrs. Eliabeth Raffald's Experienced English Housekeeper, published in 1768.
This dish is actually quite simple to make.
Like so many 18th-century recipes it tastes wonderfully fresh -- especially if you use freshly grated nutmeg.
* 1 medium (2 kilo/4.5 lb) salmon, bioned and skinned but with the two sides still in 1 piece
* 200g/7oz mussels or clams, freshly cooked, frozen or tinned
* 1 large slice wholemeal (whole wheat) bread, crumbed
* 6 large sprigs of parsley, chopped
* sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
* 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
* 1 small head fennel, chopped
* 1 large bunch parsley
* 2 lemons
* 40g/1 1/2 oz butter
* 40g/ 1 1/2oz flour
* 4 teaspoons grated horseradish (no horseradish cream or sauce)
* 90ml/ 3 fl oz/ 3/8 cup medium sherry
the 2 sides of salmon on thye counter, insides facing upwards, and
arrange the mussels, breadcrumbs and parsely down the middle of each.
Generously season them with salt and pepper, nutmeg and mac. Roll both
up carefully and wrap or tie them in a piece of muslin to prevent them
falling apart. If you do not have any muslin a new J cloth does very
Put both rolls in a pan just big enough to hold them with the fennel,
parsley and one lemon, sliced, and cover with water. Cover the pan and
bring it very slowly to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes then turn
off the heat. Leave the fish toi continue cooking in the water for at
least another hour. Remove the rolls of fish carefully from the pan and
keep them warm. Strain the fish stock and reserve.
In a separate pan melt the butter gently. Add the flour, stir around
well, then add the horseradish. Slowly, stirring all the time, add 400
ml (14 fl oz/ 1 3/4 cups) of the fish stock. Continue to cook
until the sauce thickens, then add the sherry and season to taste if it
Remove the muslin from the 2 salmon rolls and place them in the middle
of a serving dish. Surround with the dressed spinach and decorate with
the remaining lemon, sliced and formed into butterflies. Serve the
Festive Feasts Cookbook
by Michelle Berriedale-Johnson
delightful piece of culinary history recreates 10 historic feasts from
all corners of the globe and a wide ranging span of time and cultures,
from the ancient Greeks and Aztecs to the Native American Iroquis and
Not so much a cookbook as an interpretive history, Berriedale-Johnson's
book will nevertheless provide inspiration and resources for
adventurous cooks preparing large meals in a historical context.