ingenious little windmill will develop quite some power for its size,
and you can run miniature machinery with it. You can make all of the
parts, including the large pulleys, of soft pine.
The base is a board 1 inch think, 5 inches wide and 24 inches long. It
has a slot 3/4 of an inch wide and 5 inches long cut in the pointed
end, and a 5/16 of an inch hole bored 8 inches in from the square end.
Make a pair of bearing blocks with caps that screw down to them; the
blocks are 3/4 of an inch think, 4 inches high and 5 inches wide, while
the caps are 3/4 of an inch thick, 1 inch long and 5 inches long.
The next step is to make
th vane and
this is formed of a 3/4-inch thick board that is 10 inches wide and 16
inches long. Before you fix this in place in the slot of the baseboard,
the transmission gear must be secured to the latter. It consists of a 2
1/2-inch pulley that is keyed, or otherwise fixed on the driving shaft,
two small iron pulleys that screw into the baseboard and a 5-inch
pulley keyed to one en of the driven shaft. The pulleys are 3/4 of an
inch thick and have V-grooves cut in their rims.
the caps on the blocks and then bore a 3/8 of an inch hole in the
middle of the line that separates them. Get two 3/4-inch lengths of
brass or copper tubing, the inside of which is a 1/4 of an inch, and
the outside diameter of 3/8 of an inch, and fit these into the holes
for the bearings for the shaft to run in. Drill an 1/8-inch hole
through each cap for the oil hole, and this must go on
the bearings. Now screw the blocks to the base. There are two shafts,
the driving shaft and the driven shaft. Both of these are 1/4 of an
inch in diameter; the former one is 2 feet long while the latter is as
long as the tower is high.
The wheel has eight blades, and each of these is made of a piece of
wood 1 inch thick by 1 1/2 inches wide and 14 inches long; the wood is
cut away on the two opposite corners until the remaining part is about
3/16 of an inch thick. The thick ends of the blades are screwed to the
face of a wooden disk that is 1 inch thick and 4 inches in diameter,
and this is secured to a hub either with pins or screws. The disk and
hub have a 1/4-inch hole bored through the center of them so that the
end of the driving shaft can be forced into them.
The blades are set at equidistant points around the disk and to hold
them in place and so that there will be no undue strain on them when
the wind is high. Fasten a soft iron wire to their free ends and twist
the ends of the wire together. Slip the 2 1/2-inch pulley on the shaft
and key, or otherwise fix it, 9 inches back from one end so that it
will come directly over the small iron pulleys on the base and then
mount the shaft in its bearings.
The next thing to do is make the swivel bearing, which is the part that
permits the windmill to turn about in a horizontal plane and enables it
to adjust itself so that regardless of the direction that the wind is
blowing the blades will receive the maximum amount of power from it.
There are different ways to get this result but about the simplest one
is to use the covers of two tin coffee cans which are 5 inches in
diameter. Cut an 1/8 of an inch piece out of the rim of one of them and
on down to the center so that it will spread out enough to let the
other one slip easily into it. Cut a 3/8 of an inch hole in the center
of each of the covers and then saw out a wood disk that will fit snugly
into the first cover; bore a 3/8 of an inch hole through the center of
the disk and screw it to the bottom of the base, and be sure that the
holes in them are exactly in a line with each other. Now put the cover
over it and fasten them together with either brads or small screws
through the rim.
This done, push an end of the driven shaft through the upper block of
the tower, thence on through the can covers and the base and key the
5-inch pulley to it. Put some heavy motor-car oil in the lower can
cover, and then let the base of the windmill down until the upper can
cover rests in the lower one, when you will find that the base will
turn easily round in a horizontal plane.
Finally, use a piece of fish line for the belt, and to do this loop it
over the small pulley, lush the ends of it under the little iron
pulleys, then bring it around the large pulley and tie the ends of it
together so that it will be taut. If there is any tendency for the belt
to slip you can loop a rubber band over each one of the large pulleys
when they will offer enough frictional resistance to prevent it.
With Tools for Fun and Profit
by A. Frederick Collins
Working With Tools for Fun and Profit
by A. Frederick Collins
D. Appleton-Century Co., 1937
Things For You To Build
> A Work Bench and
a Tool Chest
> A Window
> A Printing-press
> A Wood-turning
> A Flat-Bottom
> A Wheelbarrow
> A Bicycle Trailer
> An Ice Yacht